GM 19152666
Brake Pads, Front

Before working on front brake pads you must check the brake fluid in the master cylinder tank and drain fluid until it measures at the halfway mark between target limits. Secure the vehicle on lift stands and take out the tire and wheel set. Keep the rotor attached to the hub by threading two lug nuts by hand. Use a large c-clamp to squeeze the front caliper piston. Place the c-clamp over the caliper housing and against the back of the outboard pad. When the piston reaches the caliper bore, you can take off the caliper from the rotor. When taking out the lower caliper bolt protect the pin boot and keep the brake caliper from harm by using heavy mechanic's wire. Lift the caliper to see the pads and take out one pad set plus both retainer slides from the caliper bracket. Check the disc brake parts for damage and replace broken components after you check brake mounting components. Replace the caliper bolts when they show rust evidence during the installation process. Put the piston into the caliper bore with a c-clamp either through an old Brake Pad or wooden block while protecting the piston surface. Place the two retainers on the caliper bracket and observe the wear sensor position on the outer pad of the leading edge during forward wheel move. Attach the pads to the caliper holder and take off the support while moving the caliper onto the front brake pads. Add applying agent to the bolt threads and housing boot before installing the bottom caliper bolt with 95 nm torque. Attach the tire and wheel assembly onto the hub and remove its two wheel lug nuts to take off the rotor. After turning off the engine use 2/3 of the Brake Pedal pressure to depress it and then release it slowly. Apply the Brake Pedal gently for 15 seconds then repeat until the brake feels noticeably firmer. This fully positions the brake caliper pistons against the pads. Complete the brake master cylinder reservoir to the required amount while lightly running the pads over rotors.

First check the brake master cylinder reservoir fluid level before working on the front brake pads. Keep the fluid at midpoint if the tank shows half-full to minimum marks, but drain to midpoint if the tank has more fluid. Safely position the vehicle, then unlock the tire from the wheel before removing the tire and wheel assembly. Secure the c-clamp on the brake caliper body with its ends against the caliper rear and outer Brake Pad until the caliper piston moves through the brake rotor. You must take out the c-clamp and bottom brake caliper pin bolt after positioning heavy mechanic's wire underneath to maintain the hydraulic flexible brake hose's safety. Push the caliper body upward until it stays in place and apply the c-clamp once more to compress the piston fully by pressing the clamp against the piston with an old inner pad or wood block. Pull the c-clamp and old pad before you separate the inboard and outboard brake pads from the caliper bracket. Next inspect both Brake Pad retainers while working. Look for signs of damage on the suspension boots holding the caliper bolt while checking the pin bolts for rust patches and changing them when required plus examining the rubber piston boot condition for replacement. Put high temperature silicone lube on front brake caliper pin bolts before installing brake pads and pads retainer onto the caliper bracket then pushing the caliper down over the pads. Install the bottom caliper pin bolt with 85 nm (63 ft. Lbs.) force. Place the wheel back onto the vehicle, lower the vehicle down and press the Brake Pedal for 2/3 of its range before releasing it with the engine off. Hold the Brake Pedal down for 15 seconds many times until you find a strong Brake Pedal position which sets the brake pistons and brake pads correctly. After filling the brake cylinder with proper fluid top off torque the brake caliper bolt takes the wheel off and applies brake pressure then burns pad surfaces against the rotor.

To replace front brake pads you first need to drain two-thirds of the brake fluid from the master cylinder before raising and supporting the vehicle fully. Remove the wheel. Do not force the caliper piston with a screwdriver or pry bar since this can destroy the piston boot while making it prone to rust. Apply a large c clamp to push the caliper piston hard into the fixed space inside the caliper housing. Pull out the bottom caliper pin and lift the body upward to extract both inner and outer brake pads attached to their anchor brackets while checking the pad retainers. Check the caliper bolt suspension boots for signs of wear before continuing. Also examine the caliper pin bolts for any physical or rust-related issues. Push the Brake Pad retainers into the caliper anchor slot before inserting both brake pads below. Keep the caliper piston boot surface even when placing the padded sections. To release trapped air, insert a small plastic tool above the piston and exert pressure through the boot edge. Place the brake caliper over brake pads before inserting the bottom caliper slide pin into the anchor bracket and tightening it to 27 nm. Place the tire assembly and lower the vehicle steadily. Take three short brake pedal applications delivering 778 n (175lb) pressure inside the brake system to properly seat brake pads and piston. Replace brake fluid and activate the pad on rotor surface to create a smooth surface.

You can start replacing the front brake pads by examining the brake master cylinder reservoir fluid level. If this stands halfway between its maximum and lowest settings new fluid is unnecessary but when full drawing brake fluid down to equalize the level. Lift the vehicle and take off both tire and wheel parts. Lock the large c-clamp onto the caliper piston to push it inside the housing until the caliper passes over the brake rotor. Afterward remove the clamp. Secure the brake caliper with wire during bottom bolt removal to defend the hose from harm. Position the body of the caliper towards the top and keep the hydraulic hose intact. Push your second large c-clamp along with an old Brake Pad or wood block against the caliper piston to make it fully compressed. Remove the clamp and block before continuing. Check the Brake Pad retainers on both sides of the Brake Caliper Bracket after removing the inboard and outboard brake pads. Look for problems with the caliper bolt suspension boots and change all parts showing damage. Also check the caliper pin bolts for corrosion and replace any faulty parts. Double check the front Brake Caliper Piston boot for wear and apply niglube grease into front brake caliper pin bolts. Place Brake Pad retarders and pads into the caliper bracket before positioning the caliper downward onto the pads while pressing them into the bracket. Put the lower brake caliper pin bolt through its holes and fasten it at 85 nm (63 ft. Lbs.) torque setting. Drive the tire and wheel back into place and lower the vehicle face-down. Press the Brake Pedal a third of the way down while holding the key open then release it. Press and release the Brake Pedal three times for 15-second intervals until you reach a firm pedal feeling to let the brake caliper pistons and pads settle into place. Plug the brake master cylinder reservoir to proper fill and burnish brake pads and rotors.

Instead of j55, to replace the front brake pads, we should first check the brake master cylinder fluid reserve; if it is above midway between the maximum-full point and the minimum allowable level, drain some to the midway point. Lift and lift the vehicle, then take the tire and wheel assembly. Push a large c-clamp over the brake caliper body, place the ends against the rear of the caliper and the outer Brake Pad, and tighten it until the caliper piston has compressed far enough to slide past the brake rotor. Take off the c-clamp and bottom brake caliper pin bolt and remember to hold the caliper by using heavy mechanic's wire in order to avoid damaging the hydraulic flexible brake hose. Upend the body of the caliper without unhooking the hose and use a large c-clamp with an old inner Brake Pad or block of wood against the caliper piston to compress it as far as it will go. Second, remove the c-clamp and old Brake Pad, or wood block, remove the inboard and outboard brake pads off of the caliper bracket, and check the Brake Pad retainers. Check the damage on caliper bolt suspension boots and replace if necessary, as well as inspecting and replacing the caliper pin bolts if they are corroded. Also, check the caliper piston boot and replace in case of decay. Ouple the Brake Pad retainers and both brake pads to the caliper bracket, and then swing the caliper downward over the pads. Put a thin layer of niglube grease on brake caliper pin bolts before putting the lower brake caliper pin bolt and tightening to 85 nm (63 ft. Lbs.). Take out the wheel and tire assembly, reinstall it, lower the vehicle; with the engine turned off depress the Brake Pedal down to approximately 2/3 of its travel and then release it gently. Do this again and again until you get a firm Brake Pedal which will effectively seat the caliper pistons and brake pads. Lastly, top up the brake master cylinder reservoir to the right level and burn the pads and rotors.

Start by checking the brake master cylinder reservoir for fluid level. Drain fluids when needed until you reach the correct position between minimum and maximum marks. Lift the vehicle and put safety stands under it. Remove the tire and wheel units. Apply two hand-tight wheel nuts to hold the rotor while using a large c-clamp to slowly push the front caliper piston against the back of the outboard pad until the piston can be removed from the bore. Position the roof caliper above the wheel for protection and untighten both components before disassembling. Take the caliper pads off from their mounting position and detach the retainer slides from the caliper bracket. Check the disc brake mounting parts as well as the caliper dust boot for damage and replace faulty components. Replace the caliper bolts with new parts because corrosion makes them unsafe. Insert a wooden block on top of the piston and install it in the caliper bore using a c-clamp while ensuring not to harm the piston or boot. Place the two retainers onto the caliper bracket with attention to the wear sensor position at the leading edge of outside pads when the wheel turns forward. Fasten the pads to the caliper anchor bracket first, then move the caliper back over the front pads. Smear grease on the bolt threads before inserting and screwing the lower caliper bolt into position with a torque of 95 nm (70 ft. Lbs.). Install wheel assembly on tire and lower the car then remove wheel lug nuts holding rotor to the hub. While keeping the engine turned off press Brake Pedal to two-thirds of its length and release it slow. Press and release the Brake Pedal 15 times but stop when you achieve a solid Brake Pedal sensation that helps put brake pads and pistons in the correct position. Complete brake system restoration by loosening the Brake Pad master cylinder reservoir to its right position before burning in both pads and rotors.

To remove the front brake pads, pull out two-thirds of the brake fluid from the master cylinder, lift the vehicle and make sure it is supported adequately. Mark the wheel axel flange corrleation, and remove the wheal. Do not use a screwdriver or pry bar to compress the caliper piston, which might ruin the piston boot and induce corrosion. Instead, tighten up the caliper piston so that it slides right into the caliper bore without pinching the wear sensor wiring harness. Do this with the help of a large c clamp. Pinnacle auto spares and a part of an in depth approach correct ing is proceed remove wear braker pad wear on sensor and then removing bottom slide caliper of flashlink provide along side inspection for boots on the caliper bolt suspension examine the look at for damage. Replace if necessary. Pivot the body of the caliper upwards and remove the inboard and outboard pads from the anchor bracket, check the pad retainers. For the installation, insert the Brake Pad retainers into the caliper anchor bracket and install both brake pads. If new pads are mounting, the caliper piston will need to be compressed fully into the caliper bore using a large c clamp so the piston boot lays flat. Take a small plastic or wooden tool and use it to lift the inner edge of the boot next to the piston and press out any trapped air. Pivot the caliper down over the brake pads and into the anchor bracket, clicking the Brake Pad wear sensor into the inner Brake Pad and insert the lower caliper slide pin and tighten it to 85 nm (63 ft lbs.). Replace the tire and wheel assembly (dep), lower the vehicle and start the vehicle and apply approximately 778 nm (175 lb.) of force three times to the brake pedal to seat the Brake Caliper Piston and brake pads (dep) followed by burnishing pads and rotors.

Brake pad and disc burnishing becomes essential when service work happens on disc brakes due to its role in creating suitable braking surfaces. Choose a flat road with few cars and accelerate the vehicle to 48 km/h at 30 mph with care to prevent brake overheating. Press the brake pedal moderately hard to stop the vehicle smoothly but prevent the lockup of brakes. Complete 20 brake stops by accelerating and braking while giving enough time for the brake pads and discs to cool down.

To make brake pads and brake discs ready for use we need to burnish them especially during brake system service when disc brake discs are repaired or replaced plus when new disc brake pads are installed. Travel to a safe highway with minimal cars before stepping on the gas to reach 48 km/h. Stay attentive to prevent letting the brake system get too hot during the procedures. A controlled brake push from mild to strong pressure will stop the vehicle while preventing brake locking. Keep conducting stops and breaks at 48 km/h while giving the brakes time to cool between each sequences to complete the 20 stop requirement.

Inspect the fluid level in the brake master cylinder reservoir.

Raise and support the vehicle, then remove the rear tire and wheel assembly.

Reduce it to the midway point.

Inspect the brake caliper bolt suspension boots and replace if damaged, check the brake caliper pin bolts for damage or corrosion, and replace if necessary.

Support the brake caliper with heavy mechanic's wire.

Lubricate the upper caliper bolt and bolt boot with silicone grease, then tighten the caliper bolt to 44 Nm (32 ft. lbs.).

Use a spanner type wrench to turn the piston clockwise until it bottoms in the bore, aligning the cutouts in the piston with the alignment pins on the brake pads.

Use a large C-clamp over the top of the caliper housing against the back of the outboard pad until the caliper can be slid off the rotor.

Replace them if necessary.

The caliper bolts.

Inspect the fluid level in the brake master cylinder reservoir; if it is above the midway point between the maximum-full and minimum allowable levels, remove fluid to that midway point.

Check the caliper bolt suspension boots for damage and replace if necessary, and inspect the caliper pin bolts for corrosion, replacing them if damaged.

Bottom the piston into the caliper bore using a C-clamp, then install the two retainers to the caliper bracket, ensuring the wear sensor is on the outside pad.

Install the brake pad retainers into the brake caliper bracket, then install the inboard and outboard brake pads.

Refill the brake fluid and burnish the pads and rotors.

Remove two-thirds of the brake fluid from the master cylinder, then raise and support the vehicle.

Inspect the fluid level in the brake master cylinder reservoir; if it is above the midway point, remove fluid to that level.

Install the brake pad retainers into the caliper bracket, pivot the caliper down over the new brake pads, and insert the lower brake caliper pin bolt, tightening all pin bolts to 113 Nm (83 ft. lbs.).

Check the caliper bolt suspension boots for damage and replace if necessary, inspect the caliper pin bolts for corrosion, and check the caliper piston boot for deterioration.

Insert the lower brake caliper pin bolt and tighten it to 85 Nm (63 ft. lbs.).

Take out the inboard and outboard pads from the anchor bracket and inspect the pad retainers.

Inspect the fluid level in the brake master cylinder reservoir; if it is above the midway point, remove fluid to that midway point.

Inspect the caliper bracket boots for cuts, tears, or deterioration, replacing them if damaged, and check the piston boot for similar conditions.

Use a C-clamp with an old brake pad or wooden block across the face of the piston.

Fill the brake master cylinder reservoir to the proper level and burnish the pads and rotors.

GM replacement brake lining material (or equivalent).

Raise and support the vehicle, then remove the tire and wheel assembly.

Lubricate the bolt and bolt boot with silicone grease.

Take out the inboard and outboard brake pads and inspect the brake pad retainers, caliper bolt suspension boots for damage, and the caliper piston boot.

Raise and support the vehicle.

Ensure a firm brake pedal is obtained by pumping the brake pedal as necessary.

Remove the C-clamp and the upper caliper bolt, then rotate the brake caliper down to access the brake pads.

Inspect the fluid level in the brake master cylinder reservoir; if it is above the midway point, remove fluid until it reaches that point.

Lubricate it with High Temp Silicone Lube, install it, and tighten it to 44 Nm (32 ft. lbs.).